Why Bespoke Suits Cost What They Do

Why Bespoke Suits Cost What They Do

When clients see our prices—starting at $1,800 and ranging up to $4,500—I understand why questions arise. You can buy a suit at a department store for a fraction of that price. What justifies the difference?

We believe in transparency. Let me walk you through exactly what goes into a commissioned garment and why the pricing is what it is.

The Fabric: Your Foundation

The cloth you choose is often the largest variable in price. Our team sources directly from British and Italian mills like Holland & Sherry and Dormeuil, the same legendary producers that supply Savile Row.

What makes this fabric different?

Premium suiting fabric represents wool from specific sheep herds raised in controlled climates. This raw material is processed using techniques refined over generations to ensure durability and handle. The result is cloth that drapes naturally and recovers its shape after a long day.

We often recommend a sturdy Super 110s or 120s wool for daily business wear. While higher numbers like Super 150s or 180s feel incredibly soft, they can be more fragile and prone to wrinkling.

Fabric costs rise substantially as you move into these finer weaves, add cashmere blends, or select from limited-run collections. At Finch & Co., the cloth typically accounts for 15-25% of the total suit cost.

The Pattern: 60 Years of Knowledge in Every Line

Every commissioned suit begins with a paper pattern drafted specifically for your body. This is not a computer-adjusted template but a fresh design drawn from scratch.

We use drafting techniques I learned on Savile Row that stretch back generations.

Creating this blueprint requires understanding anatomy and physics alongside measurements. Why does your right shoulder sit slightly lower than your left? How does your specific posture affect the way a jacket hangs when you are standing still? Where does the fabric naturally want to pool?

We direct the cloth to drape cleanly rather than fighting against your body’s natural lines. This knowledge is built through years of training and thousands of fittings. The drafting process that takes me an hour or two represents decades of accumulated expertise.

The Cutting: Precision That Can’t Be Rushed

With the pattern complete, fabric cutting begins. Each piece is cut by hand.

We precisely follow the pattern with specific allowances for seams and potential future adjustments. Cutting is about understanding how the fabric’s grain will affect the finished garment.

We position pattern pieces to use the cloth efficiently while ensuring that stripe or check patterns align perfectly across seams. A mistake at this stage ruins expensive fabric and sets the entire project back. Experience at the cutting table prevents costly errors down the line.

The Construction: 60+ Hours of Handwork

Here is where the most significant investment occurs. A true artisan suit requires 60 to 80 hours of skilled handwork.

The canvas work alone takes many hours. The internal layer that gives a jacket its shape—the canvas—is hand-padded and stitched to gradually build up volume in the chest and lapel.

This layer “floats” between the fabric and lining. It allows the jacket to mold to your body over time.

Hand-sewn details define the quality:

• Pick stitching: Tiny, visible stitches along lapel edges that prevent rolling.
• Floating Canvas: Thousands of internal stitches that create a flexible, breathable structure.
• Functional Buttonholes: Each one is cut and sewn by hand using silk thread.

A single hand-finished buttonhole can take 20 to 30 minutes to complete properly. Machine-made versions take seconds but often fray or look flat.

Canvas Construction vs. Factory Fusing

Feature	Our Hand-Canvassed Suit	Factory Fused Suit
Internal Structure	Floating canvas of wool and horsehair	Glued synthetic interlining
Adaptability	Molds to your body shape over time	Remains stiff and static
Breathability	High (air flows through layers)	Low (glue blocks airflow)
Longevity	15-20+ years with care	2-4 years (glue eventually bubbles)

The Fittings: Refinement in Stages

Unlike ready-to-wear, our process includes multiple fittings to ensure accuracy. At each stage, we refine the garment further:

• First fitting: The “basted” suit is tried on. We mark where shoulders need adjusting and where the balance needs correction.
• Second fitting: We verify the changes and address any remaining issues with the drape or comfort.
• Final fitting: We perform one last check before the garment is pressed and delivered.

Each fitting represents additional time for both you and us. This rigorous process is why a custom commission fits like nothing else can.

Operating a Real Workshop

Behind every suit is the overhead of maintaining a proper tailoring workshop. We pay rent in Victoria and maintain specialized equipment.

We also pay for the time to do work properly rather than rushing to meet factory quotas. We don’t outsource.

Every stitch in a Finch & Co. suit is done here in our Fort Street atelier. This commitment to local, on-site work means we control quality at every stage. It also means we bear the costs of doing everything ourselves in a high-cost region.

The Math of Mass Production

To understand pricing, consider what mass production achieves and what it sacrifices. A factory suit might use $30-50 of fabric.

Cutting and construction often take only 2-3 hours of lower-wage labor. Fused canvas replaces hours of hand-padding. Machine buttonholes take seconds.

The result is a functional garment at a fraction of the price. It is a fundamentally different product made for an “average” body that does not exist. Factory suits use techniques optimized for speed rather than longevity.

When you buy from us, you are not paying a premium for a fancy label. You are paying for a garment designed for your body alone.

The Value Proposition

A $2,500 commissioned suit might seem expensive compared to a $500 off-the-rack option. But you must look at the Cost Per Wear (CPW).

Longevity is the key factor. A well-made suit, properly cared for, lasts 15-20 years or more.

We have clients still wearing suits we made a decade ago. That $2,500 over 15 years is roughly $167 per year.

Fit provides confidence. No off-the-rack suit will ever fit like one made for you.

Alterability extends the life of the garment. Because our suits have generous seam allowances and quality materials, they can be altered as your body changes. A factory suit often cannot survive significant alterations.

Satisfaction is the intangible benefit. There is something deeply satisfying about owning a garment made by skilled hands specifically for you.

Our Commitment

At Finch & Co., our bespoke suits start at $1,800 and can reach $4,500 depending on fabric choice. Every commission includes all consultations, pattern drafting, multiple fittings, and any necessary adjustments.

We ensure there are no hidden costs. We believe in the value of what we create.

If you have never experienced this level of tailoring, I would welcome the chance to show you what is possible. Start with a complimentary consultation where we can discuss your needs, show you fabric options, and answer any questions about the process.

The investment is real. So is what you receive in return.