Thomas Mason, Albini, and More: Understanding Premium Shirt Fabrics

When you invest in custom shirts, the fabric choice defines the entire experience.

The cloth affects how the shirt looks, feels against your skin, and how it holds up after a long day of meetings.

Most clients come to us focusing on the fit, but they quickly realize the material is what determines longevity.

Understanding the technical differences between mills and weaves helps you make a choice that suits your specific lifestyle.

We see this daily with our California clients who need fabrics that transition from the marine layer in San Francisco to the dry heat of Palm Springs.

Let’s examine exactly what separates premium textiles from standard options.

The Mills That Matter

The dress shirt industry relies on a few legendary producers who control the quality from the cotton field to the final bolt.

We work exclusively with mills that have a verifiable history of consistency.

Thomas Mason (Italy) Founded in Lancashire in 1796, this mill holds an archive of over 700 volumes of textile designs. Thomas Mason was acquired by the Albini Group in 1992 but maintains a distinct identity focused on bold British colors with Italian finishing. Their Goldline collection is particularly notable for using long-staple Egyptian Giza 45 cotton, which offers a silky hand feel that softens over time.

Albini (Italy) The Albini Group is the largest European manufacturer of shirting fabrics and remains family-run since 1876. They are vertically integrated, meaning they oversee everything from the cotton harvest to the weaving in Bergamo. Their BIOFUSION line is a standout for our eco-conscious clients, offering fully traceable organic cotton that doesn’t sacrifice durability.

Canclini (Italy) Based near Lake Como, Canclini started with silk in the 1920s before moving to cotton. This heritage shows in their finishing processes. We often recommend their flannels and casual prints to clients looking for a softer, more relaxed aesthetic for weekend wear.

David & John Anderson (Italy) Also part of the Albini umbrella, this brand represents the pinnacle of high yarn counts. They specialize in ultra-fine fabrics, such as 200/2s and 300/2s (Culinary of cottons). These shirts feel lighter than air but require professional laundering to maintain their pristine appearance.

At Finch & Co., we source primarily from Thomas Mason and Albini because they offer the most consistent performance for daily wear.

Understanding Cotton Quality

Marketing terms often obscure the actual metrics that determine quality.

We prioritize three technical factors when selecting fabrics for our collection.

Fiber Length and Origin

The geographic origin of the cotton dictates the length of the fiber, known as the “staple.”

• Extra-Long Staple (ELS): Fibers must exceed 35mm (1.38 inches) to qualify. This includes Supima, which is grown right here in the American West (California and Arizona).
• Giza 45: The “Queen of Egyptian Cotton,” cultivated in a small area of the Nile Delta. It is harvested manually to preserve the fiber integrity.
• Sea Island: Grown in the Caribbean, this is one of the rarest cottons globally, accounting for less than 0.004% of global production.

Longer fibers create smoother yarns with fewer connection points.

This results in a fabric that resists pilling and stays smooth after dozens of washes.

Ply and Thread Count

You will often see numbers like 100/2 or 140/2 on a fabric swatch.

The first number refers to the thread count (fineness), and the second refers to the ply (how many threads are twisted together).

Specification	Description	Best Application
80/2 - 100/2	Durable, substantial weight.	Daily business shirts; travel frequenters.
120/2 - 140/2	Silky, refined, slightly thinner.	Board meetings; formal events; luxury feel.
170/2+	Extremely fine, delicate, wrinkles easily.	Black tie events; enthusiasts who use dry cleaners.
Single Ply	One strand. Often cheaper, less durable.	Casual summer shirts; lower price points.

We almost exclusively use two-ply fabrics.

Twisting two yarns together before weaving creates a “rope” effect that significantly increases tensile strength and longevity compared to single-ply alternatives.

Finishing Techniques

Raw woven fabric is rough and unstable until it undergoes finishing.

Top-tier mills use a process called mercerization, which involves treating the cotton fibers to swell them.

This increases luster, improves dye uptake for richer colors, and reduces shrinkage.

Cheaper mills often skip this or use chemical softeners that wash out after five cycles.

The Major Weaves

The weave structure dictates how the shirt breathes and drapes.

We guide clients toward specific weaves based on their local microclimate and daily routine.

Poplin (Broadcloth)

This is the standard-bearer for business attire, featuring a simple over-under weave pattern.

Why it works:

• Breathability: It is typically lighter (around 100-110 gsm), making it ideal for warmer Los Angeles days.
• Crispness: It holds a sharp crease and looks immaculate under a suit jacket.
• Formality: The smooth surface has no texture, making it the dressiest option.

The Trade-off: Poplin wrinkles more easily than any other weave. If you travel frequently without a steamer, this might be frustrating.

Twill

Twill is easily identified by its diagonal texture or “wale.”

Why it works:

• Drape: Heavier than poplin, it falls cleanly over the body and masks minor fit issues.
• Wrinkle Resistance: The weave structure naturally resists creasing.
• Opacity: White twill is less transparent than white poplin, hiding undershirts effectively.

The Trade-off: It can be warmer. We recommend lighter “Imperial Twills” for California clients to avoid overheating.

Oxford Cloth

This uses a basket weave structure where multiple weft threads cross over an equal number of warp threads.

Why it works:

• Durability: Originally designed for polo players, it can withstand heavy wear and frequent laundering.
• Texture: The visible weave pairs perfectly with jeans or chinos for a smart-casual look.
• Aging: Like a good pair of denim, high-quality Oxford cloth gets softer with every wash.

The Trade-off: Standard Oxford is heavy (often 160+ gsm). It is great for a San Francisco evening but potentially too thick for a mid-day meeting in Sacramento.

Royal Oxford

Despite the name, this is quite different from a standard Oxford.

It uses finer yarns and a more intricate weave to create a diamond-like effect.

Why it works:

• Versatility: It has the shine of a dress shirt but the texture of a casual shirt.
• Airflow: The open weave makes it surprisingly breathable.

The Trade-off: The loose weave can snag if you catch it on a sharp edge or watch clasp.

Herringbone

A variation of twill where the diagonal pattern reverses direction to create a “V” shape.

Why it works:

• Visual Interest: It adds depth to solid colors without introducing a contrasting pattern.
• Ironing: It is generally easy to iron and resists stubborn creases.

The Trade-off: It is slightly heavier than poplin, similar to standard twill.

End-on-End (Fil-à-Fil)

This is essentially a poplin weave that uses a white thread against a colored thread.

Why it works:

• Visual Texture: From a distance, it looks solid. Up close, it has a heathered, “chambray” appearance.
• Vibrancy: It creates a color depth that flat solids cannot achieve.

The Trade-off: It shares poplin’s tendency to wrinkle.

Choosing the Right Fabric

Selecting the right cloth involves balancing four practical factors.

1. The Regional Climate Factor

California offers a unique challenge due to its microclimates.

• Coastal (SF/Santa Monica): You need mid-weight Twills or Royal Oxfords that provide insulation against the ocean breeze.
• Inland (Sacramento/Palm Springs): Stick to lightweight Poplins (under 110 gsm) or open-weave linen blends (Zephyr weaves) to manage the heat.

2. Formality and Use Case

Match the texture to the occasion.

High-stakes presentations require the smooth, authoritative look of Poplin or fine Twill.

Creative meetings or “Silicon Valley casual” environments favor the texture of Oxford or patterned Herringbone.

3. Maintenance Realities

Be honest about your laundry routine.

If you send shirts to a professional cleaner, you can choose delicate high-count fabrics (140s+).

Home laundering requires resilient fabrics like standard Twill or heavy Oxford cloth that are forgiving on the ironing board.

4. Wardrobe Gap Analysis

Review what you currently own before buying.

Most men have too many plain blue shirts.

We suggest adding texture (like a white Herringbone) rather than just another flat color to expand your pairing options.

Colors and Patterns

The weave provides the structure, but the pattern provides the personality.

Foundational Colors

• White: The blank canvas. We recommend having at least three distinct white shirts (Poplin, Twill, Royal Oxford).
• Light Blue: Less stark than white and flatters almost every skin tone.

Professional Expansion

• Lavender and Pink: These pair exceptionally well with charcoal and navy suits.
• Ecru: A softer alternative to white that looks better under warm indoor lighting.

Patterns for Business

• Bengal Stripes: Bold vertical stripes (approx. 1/4 inch). They command attention and elongate the torso.
• Micro-Checks: These read as a solid color on Zoom calls but add detail when seen in person.
• Gingham: A classic check that bridges the gap between office wear and weekend dinners.

The Investment

High-quality fabric is the primary driver of cost in custom clothing.

A shirt made with Thomas Mason cloth at Finch & Co. typically ranges from $250 to $350.

This contrasts with mass-market shirts that may cost $80 to $150 but use short-staple cotton and chemical finishes.

The Value Equation

Feature	Department Store Shirt	Premium Custom Shirt
Cotton Source	Generic short-staple (prone to pilling).	Egyptian Giza or US Supima (gets softer).
Buttons	Plastic (prone to cracking).	Mother of Pearl (heat resistant).
Sizing	Neck/Sleeve only (box fit).	15+ measurements (precise fit).
Lifespan	30-40 washes before degrading.	150+ washes with proper care.

We view this as a cost-per-wear calculation.

A $300 shirt that looks pristine for three years is a better financial decision than a $100 shirt that looks tired after six months.

Building a Shirt Wardrobe

We recommend building a rotation of six essential shirts to cover 95% of your life requirements.

1. The Deal Closer: White Poplin (crisp, formal, authoritative).
2. The Daily Driver: Light Blue Twill (soft, wrinkle-resistant).
3. The Versatile Player: White Royal Oxford (texture adds interest).
4. The Creative: Blue Bengal Stripe (adds energy to a solid suit).
5. The Social: Pink or Lavender Micro-check (approachable yet smart).
6. The Weekend: Blue Heavy Oxford (perfect with denim or chinos).

This foundation ensures you are never underdressed or overdressed.

Experiencing Premium Fabrics

Digital descriptions cannot replicate the tactile experience of luxury cotton.

The weight of an Imperial Twill or the coolness of a Swiss Voile must be felt to be understood.

At your consultation with Finch & Co., we will guide you through our curated books from Thomas Mason, Albini, and other heritage mills.

You will see how different weaves catch the California light and find the specific weight that matches your comfort level.

There is no pressure to buy—just expert advice to help you elevate your personal presentation.